The Speciale hand-framed cotton sweater – Permanent Style

I love cotton knits in the Summer. I couldn’t always see the point of them, but in the past few years I’ve regularly taken one on our holidays (usually to Portugal or France) and I adore the feeling on putting one on as the day cools down.

They provide a layer of warmth as you need it, but are cool to the touch and open and breathable. In fact they feel and perform a lot like linen trousers, which is probably why the two make such a practical Summer combination.

I’ve owned and worn several over the years, but my favourite is from Speciale – the lovely shop and bespoke tailor at the top of the Portobello Road. 

Their model has a lovely handle and is the perfect weight: cottons need some substance to give them their satisfying body, but too much and they get droopy. The handle, meanwhile, was down to them being hand-framed by Corgi in Wales – the Royal Warrant-holding knitter I visited many moons ago.

The only issue with the model was that it was designed for wearing with high-waisted trousers – as fits with Speciale’s bespoke tailoring and general aesthetic. I had sized up to get a better length, and it was really too big elsewhere. 

So after another Summer of wearing the knit all the time (the feel winning out over the fit) I asked the guys if they’d be interested in a collaboration – in us become a wholesaler for a version of their knit, with a longer body. 

They agreed, wonderfully, and this is what we’re launching today on PS – the Speciale cotton knits, 5cm longer in the body than their standard model. The guys have also been amazing in getting these through early, and they’re now on display in the PS Pop-Up – come try them on, it’s open from today until Saturday.

The cottons are also available online now, and in two colours – navy and cream. 

When I mentioned the knits in passing last week, a reader asked whether they could be worn with both tailoring and with jeans – which was helpful, because it reminded me that they can, that I do, and that I should spell this out. 

So in these images I’ve tried to show a full range of looks, in order to demonstrate that versatility. 

Below, first, is the navy knit with a pair of grey-linen trousers and a black belt and loafers. I like this look – summery but also quite business-like, with something Armani-ish in there too. 

Then above, we have the navy knit with a pair of cotton shorts. Quite smart shorts, admittedly, tailored and white (an ongoing project with Whitcomb & Shaftesbury) but those could be tough khaki shorts too – the texture of the knit means it’s not out of place with something that casual. 

Then for the cream, I’ve pictured it with jeans (always has to be one with jeans) and with vintage fatigues, below. 

The cream is definitely cream – not white, or off-white, or ecru – which is a gorgeous Summer colour, especially nice with blue or black denim, khaki cottons, and Army green like the fatigues. 

The navy is good with blue jeans too of course, and actually is pretty good with black jeans, as long as there’s a little fade going on. And perhaps a belt to break them up. 

Hand framing knitwear means using a smaller loom than normal, operated by hand. It’s basically the same machine that’s been used since the 16th century, and it produces a sweater that has more natural stretch and pliability – between an actual hand-knit (one person, knitting needles) and a power loom (the vast majority of knitwear). 

We actually covered hand framing for the first time when I visited Corgi all those moons ago, but we’ve also talked about it in respect to Stoffa’s knits, and the high-end ranges from Saman Amel and Rubato. It’s more expensive, but for the work involved and the end product, still good value. 

Hand framing is also noticeable by the way the knit is fashioned together – those seams on the side of the body, on the saddle shoulder, on the ribbing and the collar. It’s a lovely bit of craft to notice and pick up on. 

In terms of fit, the knits are made to a similar size as the Cashmere Crewneck, and I’d recommend taking the same size if you already have one. I wear a Medium in both. 

Cotton does grow with wear, but should only do so where it needs to – where the body is pushing against it (rather like denim). So for that reason if you’re between sizes, you might be better with the smaller one as it will enlarge by a couple of cm as it needs to. 

The collar is deliberately small, and will feel tight when you first put it on. But it too will grow as needed, and in fact we added a centimetre here to what Speciale does as standard. I have a 60cm head (certainly not small) and the collar works well. Much more flattering than one sitting sloppy and low. 

Cotton knits are just very pliable, and rather like the sweatshirts we talked about a while back, and can be moulded a little to your shape – a gentle tug of the chest, a little pull at the collar. You can also do it with the body length, though in that case make sure to pull the whole hem down, not just in one place. 

Some nice design details are that the collar is made in a 2×2 rib, but the hem in a 1×1. This looks really nice at the collar, but gives the hem greater tension, so it holds the waist and doesn’t drop down. 

And the cotton used is a four-ply – similar in that way to the Cashmere Rugby. The yarns are different of course, but they have a similar feel and the same kind of pleasing handle. 

The Hand-framed Cotton Sweater is available now on the PS Shop, in navy and cream, and five sizes. It is also in the PS Pop-Up at 19 Savile Row to try on. 

Any questions, please let us know in the comments below.

Product details:

• 100% cotton knit made in collaboration with Speciale
• Hand-framed, with hand-fashioned seams, in Wales by Corgi
• 4-ply cotton, 5-gauge knit
• 2×2 rib collar, but 1×1 hem 
• Saddle shoulder
• Cost £345 (including VAT)

Sizing details:

• Fits true to size, similar to the Cashmere Crewneck
• Simon wears a Medium, and is six-foot tall with a 39-inch chest
• Collar is deliberately tight to begin with, but softens as needed
• Material will grow if needed, so take size down if between sizes, although a comfortable rather than close fit is recommended
• Product measurements are in centimetres, but inch conversions provided for reference

Size chart:

Chest: pit to pit

Length: the back, from where shoulder seam meets collar

Sleeve: underarm, along seam, including cuff